Method of making garments and product thereof



Nov. 6, 1934.

S. WACHTEL ET AL METHOD OF MAKING GARMENTS AND PRODUCT THEREOF Filed.April 8, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 6 "WE/V7016 3 Nae/211 i 2011419 B MK Sam Nov. 6, 1934.

5. WACHTEL ET AL METHOD OF MAKING GARMENTS AND PRODUCT THEREOF Filed.Apr-il 8, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 6, 1934 PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING GARMENTS AND PRODUCT THEREOF Sam Wachtel and Louis B. Zeldis, Philadelphia, Pa.

Application April 8, 1923, Serial No. 665,050

4 Claims.

Our invention relates to a new and useful method of making garments, and it relates more particularly to anovel method of making the waistbands of trousers.

The particular object of our present invention is to construct the waistband sections of trousers by mechanical means, which will nevertheless have the appearance of a hand-made or handfinished product.

Thus, it isan object of our present invention to finish the upper portionoftrousers by machine, so as to simulate hand finished.

With the above and other objects in view, which will appear more fully from the following detailed description, our invention consists in first superimposing a stiffening'fabric strip upon alining fabric strip, inserting the edge of the garment fabric between said lining strip and stiffening fabric'strip,'to'a suitable extent, turning theedge of the lining strip inwardly, and then applying a row of interlocking stitches to the overlapped edges, by causing a needle, in one stroke, to. pierce through the stiffening strip, the garment fabric, the folded in edge of the lining fabric, and lastly, to pierce throughthe garment fabric the second time; said needle carrying one thread with it, whichis interlocked witha second thread carried by a shuttle bobbin or the like, before the needle is retracted.

Ourinvention further consists of a novel resultant product.

Referring to the drawings in which like ref closed generally in United States Patents Nos. 480,481; 695,915; 722,496; 723,371; 731,695; 731,696; 731,697; 746,853; 830,481f 850,896;

Figure 2 represents a top plan view of a fragmentary portion of the resultant product of our present method;

Figure 3 represents a bottom plan view of the same;

Figure 4 represents a section on line 44 of Figure 2;

Figure 5 represents a similar section, with the garment'fabric shown folded back into its final or ultimate positionwith respect to, the lining andstiifening plies; 1

Figure 6 represents a side ,elevational view, partly in verticallongitudinal section, of the folder and guide, in its relation to the stitching machine;

Figure 7 represents a perspective view of a fragmentary portion of the several layers or plies of fabric, as they are related to each other by the folder, prior to the stitching operation;

Figure 8 represents a section generally on line 8-8 of Figure 6;

Figure 9 represents a section generally on line 9--9 of Figure 6;

Figure 10 represents a section generally on line 10-10 of Figure 6;

Figure 11 represents a vertical section of a fragmentary portion of the stitching machine, showing the relation of the needle to the garment plies and to the anvil, during the stitching operation;-this view being much enlarged; and

Figure -12 represents a section similar to that shown in Figure 11, on a reduced scale however, and taken at an angle of approximately fortyfive degrees to thesection shown'in Figure 11, that is, taken generally in the plane in which theneedle travels.

In carrying out our invention, we provide a stiffening ply 15, and a lining ply 16, of any suitable character or quality. These two plies l5 and 16 are preferably in the form of long strips of suitablepredetermined width, and are united to each other'by a single row of any suitable sewing stitches 17, along suitably overlapping edge zones 18 and 19, respectively. The stiffening strip 15 and the lining strip 16, having been united to each other,are then folded back upon each other, with the lining stripextending around the edge of the stiffening strip 15, in a manner shown generally in Figure 7 The thus united and disposed strips 15 and 16, are then preferably rolled up into any suitable roll 21, from which they may then be more readily fed to the machine for the subsequent steps of the method. The relative widths of stiffening strip 15 and lining strip 16 are such that when they are united at their border zones 18 and 19 bymeans of the stitches 17, the opposite longitudinal edge 22 will extend beyond the corresponding edge 23 of the stiffening strip 15, to a suitable extent.

Upon the table 24 of the stitching machine (of the general type of the Lewis and Whitelaw machines), the lower lining folder member 25, is adjustably secured by means of one or more (preferably two) set-screws 26, which extend through adjustment slots 27 and are threaded into the table 24. In the drawings only one set-screw 26 and one slot 2'7 is shown, because the balance of the View is broken away. It should be understood, however, that for greater security, and to insure against displacement of the folder member 25 while the device is in operation, at least two set-screws or a set-screw and a guide pin or dowel pin should be employed. The lining folder includes a bottom plate 28, which is turned back upon itself as at 29. At the receiving end 30 of the lining folder member 25, the fold between 28 and 29 is more open, that is, is spaced further apart, and a separator strip 31 is fixedly supported within the fold by means of the member 32, for the purpose of guiding and receiving the gradually-folded or iii-turned edge zone 33 of the lining strip 16. This is illustrated best in Figure 8. The fold is gradually narrowed down, as indicated in Figure 9, towards the discharge end of the folder, and the in-turned edge of the folder is further turned back upon itself, as at 34, in continuation of the separator member 31. The fold is then gradually closed further, as indicated in Figure 10, at the discharge end of the folder, so that a relatively close fold is obtained along the edge zone 33 of the lining 16.

Superimposed upon the lining folder member 25, the stiffening guide member 36 is provided, which is adjustably affixed in the desired position by means of a pair of similar set-screws 37, which extend through slots 33 and are threaded into the table 24, (only one set-screw and slot 38 is shown, because the balance of the view is broken away).

In addition to including the bracket portion 39, through which the set-screws 37 extend, the stiffening guide 36 is also provided with in-turned longitudinal flanges 40 and 41, which are turned in a manner indicated in Figures 8, 9, and 10, and serve to support the stiffening ply 15, and also the pre-sewn edge zone 19 of the lining strip 16.

The longitudinal edges 42 and 43 of the guide member 36, are generally parallel to each other, from the receiving end to the discharge end. The guide member 36 is so positioned with respect to the lining folder, that the edge zone 33 of the lining 16 will be forced back upon itself by the fold or curvature it of the folder plate 28, first gradually, and then more pronouncedly, as the lining passes from the receiving end (see Figure 8) towards the discharge end (see Figure 10) of the apparatus.

A garment fabric supporting plate 45 is also provided for maintaining the edge zone 46 of the garment fabric 47 in superimposed relation to the in-turned edge 48 of the lining strip 16. A generally longitudinal guide strip 49 is provided on top of the in-turned portion 29 of the folder, in order to guide the edge zone 46 of the garment fabric 47 in predetermined overlapping relation to the in-turned portion 48 and the inturned edge 50 of the lining strip 16. The right-hand end of the view shown in Figure '7 represents the relationship of the stiffening ply 15 and lining ply 16, as they enter the folder 25 and guide 36, respectively, while the left-hand end of said view illustrates the relationship of these two plies l5 and 16 and the relationship of the garment fabric 47 thereto, as these three plies leave the folder and guide, just in advance of the stitching operation, or the stitching zone.

As the folded and inter-spaced fabric members 15, 16 and 47 leave the discharge end of the folder and guide 28 and 36, respectively, in the condition shown in the left end of the view in Figure 7, they first pass under the stationary members 52 and 53, of the stitching machine, and then pass over the anvil 54 which is carried by the vertically slidable and reciprocating plunger 55, which raises up intermittently, in timed relation to the arcuate stroke of the needle 56. When the anvil 54 is raised, it carries with it the folded and inter-spaced fabric layers, as indicated particularly in Figures 11 and 12, thereby to cause the needle to pierce through the fabric layers in the manner indicated by the thread 57, which it carries with it;-said thread 57 being threaded through the eye 58 of the needle 56.

As the needle recedes, the anvil 54 also recedes, and the fabric is moved up a predetermined amount for the next stitch;-after which the anvil is again raised, and the needle again forced through the raised portion of the fabric assemblage, in a manner indicated in Figures 11 and 12.

The thread 57 carried by the needle 56, is interlocked with a second thread carried by a retary type of shuttle device 59' which forms part of the stitching machine of the type referred to.

The needle 56 is carried by a yoke type rocker arm 59, pivoted at 60 and 61, and said rocker arm 59 is oscillated in predetermined timed relation to the anvil se, the rotary shuttle 59', and the feeding presser members 62 and 63.

The two sides of each stitch, are thus disposed at 64 and 65, respectively, while the intermediate portions of the thread, being at an angle, as for instance at approximately a 45 angle, are visible on the opposite side or the bottom of the fabric 116 assemblage, which rests on the anvil 54. This is indicated by the numeral 66, in the bottom plan View in Figure 3. The visible connecting portions 66 of the thread 57, thus simulate handsewn or hand-felled stitches. When the garment 115 fabric 4'7 is then folded back upon the stiffener ply 15, in the manner shown in Figure 5, the only visible portion of the stitching thread 5'7, is the connecting portions 66. In this manner, the upper peripheral edge of the trousers, where the lining meets the overturned edge of the garment fabric, is given the appearance of a handfinished edge.

We are aware that our invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing 125 from the spirit or essential attributes thereof, and we therefore desire the present embodiment to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, reference being had to the appended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate the scope of the invention.

Having thus described our invention, what we hereby claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:-

1. The method of affixing the lining to garments, which consists in turning back and over upon itself a marginal portion of a lining fabric, overlapping, to a suitable extent, upon said overturned marginal portion of the lining fabric, the marginal portion of the garment fabric, superimposing a stiffening fabric ply upon said lining fabric, with the marginal portion of said stiffening fabric overlapping the marginal portion of the garment fabric, applying a row of straightline stitches through the overlapped marginal 145 portions of the stiffening fabric ply, the garment fabric and the lining fabric, with both sides or terminal portions of each stitch being on the upper surfaces of the respective fabrics when the w stitch is completed, and with the intermediate or connecting portions of the thread of the stitches being underneath and extending across the turned edge of the lining fabric in the same direction, and lastly positioning said three fabrics in laminated relation to each other with the stiffening fabric ply disposed intermediate the garment fabric and the lining fabric.

2. The method of affixing the lining to garments, which consists in turning back and over upon itself a marginal portion of a lining fabric, overlapping, to a suitable extent, upon said over turned marginal portion of the lining fabric, the marginal portion of the garment fabric, superimposing a stiffening fabric ply upon said lining fabric, with the marginal portion of said stiffening fabric overlapping the marginal portion of the garment fabric, applying a row of straightline stitches through the overlapped marginal portions of the stiffening fabric ply, the garment fabric and the lining fabric, with both sides or terminal portionsof each stitch being on the upper surfaces of the respective fabrics when the stitch is completed, and with the intermediate or connecting portions of the thread of the stitches being underneath and extending across the turned edge of the lining fabric at an inclined angle with respect to said turned edge and in the same direction, and lastly positioning said three fabrics in laminated relation to each other with the stiffening fabric ply disposed intermediate the garment fabric and the lining fabric.

3. The method of affixing the lining to garments which consists in turning back and over upon itself the longitudinal marginal portion of a lining fabric, overlapping, to a suitable extent, upon said overturned marginal portion of the lining fabric, the marginal portion of the garment fabric, the remaining portion of which extends in a direction generally opposite to the direction in which the remaining portion of the lining fabric extends,superimposingastiffening fabric ply upon said lining fabric, with the marginal portion of said stiffening fabric overlapping the marginal portion of the garment fabric, applying a row of straight-line stitches through the overlapped marginal portions of the stiffener ply, garment fabric, and lining fabric, by a thread sewn through said fabrics in a generally arcuate path and at an inclined angle with respect to said overlapped marginal portions and by interlocking a second thread with said first-mentioned thread at the inner terminals of the stitches all the inclined thread-portions of the resultant stitches extending in the same direction, and lastly positioning said three fabrics in laminated relation to each other, with the stiffening fabric ply disposed intermediate the garment fabric and the lining fabric.

4. A garment edging comprising a plurality of plies of fabric, including an intermediate stiffening fabric ply, a garment fabric ply disposed on one side thereof and having a marginal portion thereof turned over the edge of the stiffening fabric ply and onto the other side thereof, and a lining fabric ply on said second side of the stiff ening fabric ply having an inturned marginal portion overlapping the turned-over marginal portion of the garment fabric ply and a straightline row of lock stitches connecting the overlapped marginal portions of said three fabric plies, with both terminal portions of said stitches concealed between the fabric plies and with the intermediate or connecting thread portions of each stitch being visible and extending across the inturned edge of the lining fabric ply, and being inclined with respect thereto in the same direction and at a uniform angle.

SAM WACHTEL. LOUIS B. ZELDIS. 

